Generally speaking and speaking generally, we don’t approve of chains. They tend to take the je ne sais quoi out of things, n’est ce pas? But Hotel du Vin is that rare chain that maintains a charming idiosyncrasy throughout its sexy Anglo-French boutique hotels dotted here and there and Brighton and Glasgow, so when we heard they were opening a restaurant in London’s fair Soho, our ears were pricked and our glasses raised and several hours were duly lost. Actually their second London eaterie – the first is in Clerkenwell – the Bistro du Vin combines what the HDV group does best, namely an enticing juggling act of French and English loveliness with delights like Saucisson a la Lyonnaise, calf’s liver persillade and good ol’ moule frites. Plus a tasty wine list to relish, all in cool, latte-coloured surrounds. And if hours are lost, so be it.
Bistro du Vin, 36 Dean Street, Soho, W1D 4PS