You no longer have to hike all the way to the Kingsland Road for a Vietnamese (though we must say a hike all the way to the Kingsland Road often turns out to be a whole load of fun) – you can now stop by 44 Dean Street in London’s gay Soho area and get your noodles and what-nots at Cay Tre Soho, a Vietnamese restaurant of the highest order. OK, so maybe they don’t have the strip lighting that makes everyone look so dashed handsome like they have over in Hackney and maybe the chairs haven’t been rescued from skips and the crockery isn’t made of that shockproof plastic ‘china’ and maybe there isn’t even a fish tank with some fish that look like if they’re not exactly dead they’re certainly not having the time of their lives. But hey, as the saying goes, you can’t have it all. Not all of the time anyway. What you will find is food that is getting four stars across all boards, décor that looks like it belongs to the present day (with a little fashionable hark back to the ’30s) and lighting that looks like you might just have returned from St. Tropez rather than a hard night down the docks. Eat there. We recommend it.