The Restaurant: Spuntino

Spuntino, Soho, London

Anyone who has crammed into Polpo on Beak Street or waited on the stairs of The French House by the Lisa Stansfield pictures for a table at Polpetto will be pleased – nay, giddy – to hear of Spuntino, Russell Norman’s new venture on Rupert Street, just across from you-know-where.

Tiny, with just a three-sides-of-a-square bar to sit up at and one longish table at the back, the décor is all dilapidated tiles, retro lightbulbs, a little New York-y exit lamp by the door while the atmosphere is cool and gritty and a bit The Cock in New York City (only much more hygienic).

Sit up on a high stool, order up a truffly eggy bread or a steak sandwich, some shoestring fries, maybe a beetroot salad, get some wine sloshed into a tumbler by someone edgy with lots of tattoos, sit back and enjoy the vibe.

When we went the music was bluesy and southern Statesy, the ambience friendly, noisy and informal and the food absolutely spot on.

Spuntino is at 61 Rupert Street and takes no reservations. Not even for ready money.

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