The Restaurant: Nopi

Nopi, Soho, London

Lovers of fine deli food served in surroundings good enough to eat will know all about Mr. Ottolengi, the gay (we only mention it when we care) Tel Aviv chef with a nice sideline in cookbooks. His Upper Street deli-cum-eatery is the only place to be seen lining up outside of for Sunday brunch. Well, now you can have a proper sit-down experience courtesy of Mr. O at his all-new, all-totally-fabulous Soho restaurant (is it us, or is Soho sort of BACK!)

It’s called NOPI, which stands for North of Piccadilly, situated as it is in Warwick Street, up where Brewer Street meets Regent Street. The decor is pretty spiffy – all white and gold but NOT in a Versace kind of way – while the toilets are an experience in themselves.

As for the food, it is of the giddily high standards you would expect of someone with Ottolengi’s reputation. Imaginative, exotic and – though he’s famous for his vegetarian column in The Guardian – all-inclusive with sharing plates that veer from ossobucco through twice-cooked baby chicken to fondant swede gratin.

Good wine list, good staff, good golly Miss Molly it’s a super smash hit!

Find it at 21-22 Warwick Street (nearest tube is Piccadilly Circus). Phone 020 7494 9584 for reservations.

Nopi, Soho



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