Anyone who knows a thing or two about fashion will know it’s all about the drop crotch. Or at least it will be. TopShop/Man have gone head-over-brogues for the sunken trouser, which is fashion’s way of sounding the foghorn for a style movement.
And anyone who knows a thing or three about fashion will know Unconditional – and, okay, Rick Owens – were doing the drop trou’ thing two, three, even more seasons ago. And it’s becoming quite a habit with Unconditional, the lauded label based out of Covent Garden, this preempting/inspiring the fashion big guns business.
Its collections – now running into their ninth year – are reliably beautiful; the silhouette Philip Stephens (Unconditional’s founder and designer) creates for both men and women rarely veers from the elegantly flattering and instantly recognizable; the shows’ critiques normally contain the word ‘ethereal’; its celebrity following is actually the kind you want (Kate Moss, Jude Law, Jared Leto, Madonna); and it almost doggedly refuses to go all-out commercial, which is good for integrity. And integrity is good.
Unconditional’s A/W 2011/12 collection, shown at last week’s London Fashion Week, was the usual runway of loveliness. Familiar draping with tight tailoring; androgynous but architecturally sexy; hyper-sophisticated, in a messed up kind of way; those perfectly-executed drop trousers topped with must-have knitwear (see above).
We want all of it. And that almost never happens.
Unconditional+, 16 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden